Leg 5: San Diego to Ensenada — The Border

The border is invisible from the water. One moment you're in the US; the next, you're not. The coast looks the same — brown hills, kelp beds, the occasional panga — but everything feels different.

We crossed on October 4th, 60 miles in an easy day sail. Ensenada's anchorage is wide and well-protected, the harbor mouth flanked by a breakwater with a big painted Mexican flag. We dropped the hook, inflated the dinghy, and went ashore to check in.

The check-in process for a foreign boat in Mexico gets a reputation for complexity it doesn't quite deserve. Port captain, immigration, a zarpe (departure clearance) for the next port. Two hours, a modest fee, done. The officials were friendly. The fish tacos at the stand outside the port captain's office were excellent.

We spent six weeks in Ensenada. The plan was one. The boat had other ideas: a fuel injector issue that turned into an engine service that turned into waiting for parts. Mexico teaches patience. Ensenada is a good place to learn it.

Customs: Port captain + immigration · 2 hrs · Time in Ensenada: 6 weeks